Your eSIM connects to Metfone the moment you land. Metfone is owned by Viettel and has the widest tower network in Cambodia. It is the network you want if you plan to leave the big cities and head into the countryside.
You do not pick the network by hand. Your phone finds Metfone on its own and stays on it. If signal ever drops in a remote spot, just turn airplane mode on for a few seconds and off again. That forces your phone to search and lock back on.